Forecast: Juicy Skin & Eyelashes

All new beauty products have been appearing on the market, with a heightened focus on both ethical production and ingredients, and also a greater emphasis on science and plant extracts.

Australian beauty lovers are worldly women, of course, and there's something very exciting in discovering an incredible brand that isn't widely available or known in Australia (Isa's Restoratives, hail Brooklyn!). There's something really joyful in discovering a local brand that is hitting the mark when it comes to killer packaging, great formula, ethical and local production. With that in mind, meet:

Skin Juice

Gorgeous packaging.
Let's face it. While you may not pick a book by its cover, you certainly go for beauty products that are going to make you glow just by seeing them in your cabinet.

Bright, graphic and clever tubes and tubs for the face care range won me over. I've been using the deliciousy scented Vanilla & Honey Face Mask for hydration, the mattifying and oil-fighting Citrus Juice for daily use, and the Good Juice as an overnight skin rejuvenator.

Because they are plant and fruit-based, the scents are absolutely gorgeous. Subtle but gently spicy. The cranberry and kakadu plum infused mask is especially yummy.
The pump action tubes are clean, easy to use and mean the product lasts longer without the taint of fingers-in-formula day after day.
The full range of facial products on their website.

Here's my proud boast of the post. I have naturally lengthy, up-curled eyelashes. Whee. It's great. While I'd love to add mascara for drama, I find that half way through the day my eyes get sensitive and red. So, naturally, the idea of boosting my lashes without needing makeup is perfect.

If you were a teenager in the 90s too, chances are you over-plucked your brows into a Drew Barrymore/Courtney Love era thin line and regret it. So lastnight I began using Medik8 Lash & Brow Duo. The First Green Cosmeceutical Brand. The plant and peptide-based formula goes on with a mascara wand morning and evening. The goal is to mend the subtle but annoying patchiness of my natural brows, and to thicken and nourish the appearance of my eyelashes. Available at salons and online.

Retinol: blitz lines, blemishes and pigmentation

As I've told you a zillion times, I had terrible acne in my early teens and was on prescription Accutane (retinol or vitamin A) supplements to treat it. It worked. I have been absolutely strict about using skincare that genuinely works - without being aggressive and leaving skin damaged - ever since.
Many retinol products - or even products SAYING they have retinol in them! - are either really harsh and will leave the skin red, peeling or even dry and scaly, OR they have such a low concentration or ineffective formulation that you won't see any results at all.

Within weeks of use, you should notice that the skin has:

• a smoother texture, 
• definitely less blemishes; and 
• softer lines. 

I have tried so many products and there are a few I would recommend. One is prescription and the others are available via salons and online.
Medik8 does an excellent range of retinol serums and balms. This brand comes with dermatologist, beautician and clinician recommendation. I recommend that you start with Retinol 3TR (0.3%) or 6TR if you don't regularly use retinol already. At the moment, I'm using Medik8 Retinol 10TR. This will be available via Skincare Store later this month in serum form, but you can still get the 10TR balm form. This is the HIGHEST STRENGTH vitamin A. In time-release formula, it hasn't aggravated my skin and I'm pretty sensitive so I'm actually surprised (and very happy.)

I see Dr Sara Mullen at the Victorian Cosmetic Institute every 6 months for a sprinkling of botox to the forehead and on my last visit, I asked if she would be interrogated on the benefits of retinol. Thankfully, she found time between being in heavy demand at work and doing the soccer run with the kids.

Why use retinol?
Topical retinoids, derivatives of  Vitamin A, were first used in patients who were being treated for acne. These patients reported smoother skin and less wrinkles after treatment, as well as having fewer blemishes. A study followed that showed patients who used topical retinoids demonstrated improvement in sunlight-induced epidermal atrophy (skin thinning), dysplasia (abnormal skin changes), and pigmentation. Overall, topical retinoids play a key role in reducing sun damage, preventing and reducing wrinkles and controlling acne.

Retinoids work by increasing the natural turnover rate of the skin. Therefore there are less dead skin cells at the surface of the skin and less blockages as a result. This property of retinoids also means that skin texture and fine wrinkles also improve.

What age would you recommend starting?
Early 30s

What strength retinol is appropriate?
4% retinol is ideal but patients may need time to work up to this dose.

How often should you use it?
Starting slowly is important to reduce side effects.  It is recommended that it be used only twice a week in the first 2 weeks, then alternative nights for the next 2 weeks, then every night. Sunscreen is also imperative with the use of retinoids as they can initially increase sun sensitivity.

Is flaking, peeling and redness a sign of a problem?
The downside of retinoids is the possibility of causing a response known as retinoic dermatitis. Skin can appear red, flaky, lumpy, and irritated for up to one month after commencement of retinoids. If redness and irritation occurs, frequency should be reduced. Some patients cannot use retinoids every night. Dryness or flakiness alone is OK and will settle within 2 months so patients should persevere.

How long do you need to use retinol products before you see a difference?
You can start to see a difference in the skin as early as 3 months of use.

What conditions would prevent someone from safely using retinol?
Retinoids should not be used in pregnant or breastfeeding mothers, or those planning to be pregnant. Also patients with a history of facial eczema or moderate to severe rosacea due to the higher risk of irritation.

Cat's Cult Beauty Brands

Valerie Gradury created Odacite skincare as a result of reinventing her lifestyle to eliminate as many toxins from her diet and environment as possible. Having been diagnosed with breast cancer, she took stock and quit her job, qualified as a health and wellness coach, and began to blend potent plant oils for skin.In 2009, five years after she made the changes to her own lifestyle, Valerie launched the pure plant Serum Concentrates.

I have been using the Olesomes Time Release Creme, which is the base to add the oils to, allowing them to be absorbed by the skin more gradually (overnight).

My two picks (of the many oil blends available!) are Vital Glow Serum (Wild Carrot) and Radiance Effect (Green Tea + Lemongrass).

Both smell like heaven - you will not want to just apply once. The Wild Carrot has a sweetness that wraps you up in a hug and the lemongrass is a hit of fresh, tangy, zesty green. Radiance AND aromatherapy all in one. I'd also love to try the Hyperpigmentation Serum (Papaya + Geranium) and Elasticity Serum (Marula + Neroli).

www.odacite.com

Cruelty Free. Natural. Made in Australia.

Direct from the state that does the Big Pineapple, surfers, parking meter women in bikinis and crocodiles, comes a skincare range that is gorgeously packaged and really delivers. I’ve featured Rubifresh on the blog in the past. I still love it.

My particular picks are the cleansing gel and cleansing oil. Both smell citrus tangy and will cleanse gently so that you don't feel you just removed your makeup AND every cell of moisture in your body.

I swear by the cleansers and the face and body scrubs. I’m yet to try the Pigmentation Serum but I will be and I will report back. Stay tuned.

www.rubifresh.com.au

There's three "Series" for the Hylamide range, which allow you to use the basic Core range, the specialised Booster range and the Finisher range, designed to blur pores, increase radiance and photographic finish (if you're selfie inclined. I am not.)

These are intense serums and the high concentration of active ingredients means if you have particularly sensitive skin, you may want to apply less product, less often.

I find the Vitamin C (Booster C25) is seriously skin texture nirvana, BUT it's super intense and I prefer to leave it on for two or three hours before bed and wash it off. If you regularly use vitamin C products, you might find you can leave it on all night without issue. I have no issue leaving Booster Radiance on and my recommendation would be to use this on face AND neck and chest to ensure you look radiant from forehead to chest rather than having that "I have been tanning in a turtleneck" look. I love the Low Molecular HA Rehydration Booster. Again, skin looks and feels smoother and I look MUCH less tired in the morning.

www.hylamide.com

I'm new to the Elucent Whitening skincare range, but I'm loving it two weeks' in. This is not a bleach - the whitening refers to evening out any pigmentation caused by sun damage and hormonal imbalances. So, vitamin C, fruit extracts, vitamin E. saffron seed oil and Vitamin B are all combined in the cleanser, moisturisers, eye creams and exfoliators.

Clinical trials have shown improved and clearer skin at 12 weeks (96% respondents) and it's recommended that to see real, long lasting results, at least 3 months regular use should be committed to. Done!

www.elucentskincare.com

ABC of Skincare & Retinol for Acne, Wrinkles & Pigmentation

If you're serious about skincare, you are familiar with retinol. It's a form of Vitamin A that is used in both prescription and over-the-counter skincare products to alleviate acne and also to refine and plump ageing skin. It is found in high concentration in Accutane, which I did two rounds of as a teenager with terrible acne. It is a powerful ingredient and skin is highly sensitive to sunlight, tends to dry out easier and the lips need constant balm application.
Is it worth it? Absolutely. It completely cleared my skin.

For the past few years I have used a prescription Retinol (try Retin-A) but, through my strict research (Elle, Harper's, Vogue Paris, Vogue Italia, etc) I kept coming across a few dermatologist-recommended skincare brands using high-grade, proven ingredients.
So I had to have what the Italian, French and UK fashionistas are having, of course.
SkinCeuticals does two speeds of Retinol. Because I have been using a prescription retinol for so long, my skin is primed for the more powerful 1.0% formula. If you are new to retinol use, start with the less intense option (0.5% formula). Retinol has been proven to reduce acne, diminish wrinkles, fine lines and pigmentation. It is magic for clearing up blackheads and promotes collagen production for a more dewy, plumped appearance to the skin. Applied overnight, I use it three times a week. In this weather, I avoid direct sunlight and always apply SPF. Also, it is essential to avoid retinol if you are pregnant. This is true of any Vitamin A formula.

My current issue is uneven skintone. I'm naturally pale and for me, it's highly noticeable around my chin and jaw. So in combination with retinol, I'm using the Metacell Renewal B3. It sounds super scientific and promises to "re-clarify skin, reduce wrinkles, re-tighten surface elasticity, and even skin tone". I apply it 15 minutes before makeup in the morning and it leaves my skin smooth and primed for concealer. I have also used Medik8 Hydr8 B5 serum and it is awesome. You only need a few drops at a time. Worth every penny!

Since we've done Vitamin A and B, it's only fair to bring in the final factor. Vitamin C, when delivered in a highly stable and concentrated solution, is a powerful antioxidant. It protects against environmental damage (pollution, excess heating and cooling, dirt and grime) as well as repairing damage from sun exposure and pigmentation. I am a convert to Medik8 CE-Tetra. Medical grade Vitamin C and you only need a few drops at a time so it will last you for ages. Think of cost per use!

I highly recommend that your first port of call, before you consider clinical lasers or other interventions, is to invest in retinol and skincare that is suited to your skin (both the tone and texture). This might be pharmaceutical grade, like SkinCeuticals and Medik8, or it may be all-natural and organic. Do your research and only be satisfied with results that work for your skin. Some of the cheaper, supermarket ready skincare makes big promises but the concentration of vitamin A, B and C is just too low to have any effect. Be warned.
Full range of Medik8 and Skinceuticals available at FacialCo.

Organic, Natural Skincare and Ingredients that Cleanse and Nourish Skin

If I told you to stock up on chia seeds, blueberries, acai berries, papaya, pink grapefruit, you'd think I was giving you a list for the kitchen.
In fact, I'm giving you the essential nutrient rich ingredients for a skin regime that will bolster your natural cell turnover, collagen levels and give you a radiant complexion.

As a teenager, I had to courses of Accutane because of vicious acne. I am so careful and fussy about WHAT I use on my skin and having a routine. Every morning, my first move is to cleanse and if I've got time, apply a masque (Dermalogica Power Recovery is unbeatable). Drink coffee, remove masque. Toner (Kiehl's Cucumber Herbal Toner is alcohol free so non drying).
Then the makeup, of course!

In the evening, same deal but I might exfoliate instead of the masque to make sure every speck of makeup and dust is out, out, out! I apply body moisturiser (wake up smelling like a blueberry smoothie AND shimmering!) before bed and also Eminence Pink Grapefruit serum to blitz any spots! I also use overnight repair time to apply a rich moisturiser OR a peel depending on whether my skin is dry or there's a spot developing. So it's either Eminence Firm Skin Acai Moisturiser or Kiehl's Hydro-Plumping Re-Texturising Serum.

I recognise that Eminence and Kiehl's are not budget buys - they're skinvestment purchases. So, if you're more dash than cash right now, there is an awesome range called Goodness out newly that is all about chia seeds! These babies are rich in omega 3 fatty acids, vitamins, minerals and natural certified organic goodness for your skin. There's a whole range, but I'm loving the cleanser and moisturiser.

These are the particular products I use, but there's a mega range of all natural serums, cleansers, masques and more that will suit your particular needs...check out:
Eminence Organics, Kiehl's and Goodness.