Vitamin C For Body And Skin

So many products, from bottled juice to hand cream, claim to be rich in vitamin C. It's a great marketing spruik, but do we actually know what value it has and whether it is effectively absorbed? Do we even need it?

Vitamin C is an antioxidant (fights free radicals) that plays an essential role in collagen synthesis. It is responsible for healing cells and this explains why it is so often a key ingredient in skin care. Vitamin C has been shown to prevent and treat ultraviolet photodamage (pigmentation/burn). The skin is made up of layers of dermis. Both the epidermis and he dermis have high levels of Vitamin C concentration, though this declines with age. Concentration of Vitamin C in the skin also decreases with exposure to pollution (car fumes, cigarette smoke, etc), UV light and stress.

Vitamin C benefits for the skin include increased hydration and a more youthful appearance as a result. The skin is also more resilient to sun exposure and pollutants.
Both topical and oral supplements have shown to have positive results for skin health. Since Vitamin C in the skin is normally transported from the blood stream, an oral supplement that delivers sufficient dosage is beneficial but excessive doses don't increase the concentration of vitamin C in the skin so be sure to follow instructions on any supplements.

Vitamin C is absorbed through topical application where the pH level is below 4.0 (greaer acidity) and greatest absorption is seen in a 20% vitamin C solution. It crosses the epidermis and reaches he underlying layers of skin. Exposure to heat, air and light degrade the quality and concentration of Vitamin C though. Don't store any skin care in sunlight or leave open longer than required.

Vitamin C has shown benefits in boosting skin hydration and improving healing time for wounds.

I like to hit my skin and body with double barrels, so I take high quality oral supplement, Viviscal (all the celebs and models do it, you know!) and Medik8 C-Tetra Cream. Both are not cheap, but they last at LEAST a few months and the high quality means you get results rather than cheaper products with lower concentration and shelf time.

Make sure Vitamin C rich foods are part of your diet too - I don't believe any of us are about to suffer scurvy but better safe than sorry.

I'm a little bit in love with Nourish Atelier for great recipes and inspiring ideas with food. Her latest genius recipe is Butternut and Kale Lasagne with Quinoa and Red Pepper Sugo. Go there.

Thanks to Oregon State University for Vitamin C info.

June Gym Bag From Skincare To Sweatpants

June is miserably cold here in Melbourne. But even if it isn't shiver-to-your-bones icy where you are, these are excellent items to have in your gym bag, on your home shelf, or even stashed in the car for emergency use. Because if you break down, that's the perfect time to work your biceps as you wait for the repair guy (or girl).

Featured above.

Onzie capri

Made by LA yoga people to move, flex, moisture-wick and maximise your workout whether that's yoga, pilates, barre or weights. This heathered orange shade is the bright antidote to this dreary weather. It's summer in a pant! Get 'em here.

Cotton On handweights

Only 2kg you say? If you do some YouTube and Google time you will discover light handweights can be deadly difficult and totally effective. These are so chic in black and rose gold. Karl definitely would. At Cotton On.

Alpha H Balancing Moisturiser and Gentle Exfoliant

Alpha H does Serious Skincare. This is not your supermarket shelf standard. Anyone I know who has used it RAVES about it, me included. This is not a product I use every day or night as it's quite intense but I always wake up brighter and dewier when I do. At Alpha H.

Mellow Liquid Lip Paint

Sure, you COULD go lip colour free but it's a short life and there's a whole lot of colour in the world. So, with that in mind, don't choose to use lipstick that's going to end up on your chin after you've been sweating it out in BodyPump, barre or Bikram. Liquid lipstick that is super affordable? Yes please. Mellow Liquid Lip Paint right here.

Indermica Eye Treatment Night/Day

This is just so self-explanatory. But the reason I choose this product over the zillion eye products there are out there is because I usually wake up with sore or gluey eyes because even though it promises not to get in my eyes, somehow I react! NOT with this. And the bottle is ingenious. It's an all-in-one with two pumps so you can easily mete out day and night quantity as you need. Get it here.

Last but not least, a moisturiser that doesn't cause a breakout. Hallelujah! BetaMoisturise is a must. I'm not a teenager but get a super rich  moisturiser on my face and bam, spot time. This is tried, tested and terrific. Right here at Medik8 Australia. Oil free and mattifying.

Retinol: blitz lines, blemishes and pigmentation

As I've told you a zillion times, I had terrible acne in my early teens and was on prescription Accutane (retinol or vitamin A) supplements to treat it. It worked. I have been absolutely strict about using skincare that genuinely works - without being aggressive and leaving skin damaged - ever since.
Many retinol products - or even products SAYING they have retinol in them! - are either really harsh and will leave the skin red, peeling or even dry and scaly, OR they have such a low concentration or ineffective formulation that you won't see any results at all.

Within weeks of use, you should notice that the skin has:

• a smoother texture, 
• definitely less blemishes; and 
• softer lines. 

I have tried so many products and there are a few I would recommend. One is prescription and the others are available via salons and online.
Medik8 does an excellent range of retinol serums and balms. This brand comes with dermatologist, beautician and clinician recommendation. I recommend that you start with Retinol 3TR (0.3%) or 6TR if you don't regularly use retinol already. At the moment, I'm using Medik8 Retinol 10TR. This will be available via Skincare Store later this month in serum form, but you can still get the 10TR balm form. This is the HIGHEST STRENGTH vitamin A. In time-release formula, it hasn't aggravated my skin and I'm pretty sensitive so I'm actually surprised (and very happy.)

I see Dr Sara Mullen at the Victorian Cosmetic Institute every 6 months for a sprinkling of botox to the forehead and on my last visit, I asked if she would be interrogated on the benefits of retinol. Thankfully, she found time between being in heavy demand at work and doing the soccer run with the kids.

Why use retinol?
Topical retinoids, derivatives of  Vitamin A, were first used in patients who were being treated for acne. These patients reported smoother skin and less wrinkles after treatment, as well as having fewer blemishes. A study followed that showed patients who used topical retinoids demonstrated improvement in sunlight-induced epidermal atrophy (skin thinning), dysplasia (abnormal skin changes), and pigmentation. Overall, topical retinoids play a key role in reducing sun damage, preventing and reducing wrinkles and controlling acne.

Retinoids work by increasing the natural turnover rate of the skin. Therefore there are less dead skin cells at the surface of the skin and less blockages as a result. This property of retinoids also means that skin texture and fine wrinkles also improve.

What age would you recommend starting?
Early 30s

What strength retinol is appropriate?
4% retinol is ideal but patients may need time to work up to this dose.

How often should you use it?
Starting slowly is important to reduce side effects.  It is recommended that it be used only twice a week in the first 2 weeks, then alternative nights for the next 2 weeks, then every night. Sunscreen is also imperative with the use of retinoids as they can initially increase sun sensitivity.

Is flaking, peeling and redness a sign of a problem?
The downside of retinoids is the possibility of causing a response known as retinoic dermatitis. Skin can appear red, flaky, lumpy, and irritated for up to one month after commencement of retinoids. If redness and irritation occurs, frequency should be reduced. Some patients cannot use retinoids every night. Dryness or flakiness alone is OK and will settle within 2 months so patients should persevere.

How long do you need to use retinol products before you see a difference?
You can start to see a difference in the skin as early as 3 months of use.

What conditions would prevent someone from safely using retinol?
Retinoids should not be used in pregnant or breastfeeding mothers, or those planning to be pregnant. Also patients with a history of facial eczema or moderate to severe rosacea due to the higher risk of irritation.

February Skincare, Beauty, Activewear and Fitness News

As you know, I'm Miss Fussypants when it comes to skincare, makeup and activewear.

If it doesn't do what it says it will do, it's out! Plus my skin is prone to breakouts if I use skincare or makeup that blocks my pores or has nasties in it. 

I have been using some serious clinical strength toner and whitening serum (take THAT, pigmentation!) from Medik8 so I'm balancing it out with a milky, gentle cleanser from Embryolisse ($35 at Scotty's Makeup). I'm also using the Lait-Creme Concentre overnight ($20 at Scotty's Makeup), layered over the pore refining toner ($39 at Medik8).

The Pore Refining Toner is alcohol free and while the witch hazel cleanses and attacks blackheads and other pore clogging yuckies, the aloe vera softens and soothes. If you leave it right next to your cleanser, you won't forget to use it morning and evening. 

When it comes to makeup, I have used everything from supermarket brands through to mega labels but it's important to note that Maybelline and Lancome are both owned by L'Oreal so there will be an equally uniform approach to quality makeup with both brands. For that reason, I have used Lancome foundation and actually PREFER Maybelline! It lasts through yoga, working out, the ever changing Melbourne climate AND I don't break out or dry out. My pick is the Dream Mousse Liquid ($22.95 at Priceline).

What's new and noteworthy in lips? Burt's Bees have always done kickass lip balms but now they've branched into lipstick. Joy! The packaging is reason alone to Add to Cart. The lid is like a little block of super chic honeycomb. Cruelty free and natural, of course. Stay tuned to their page for availability.

I've mentioned Australis Velourlips before. Matte liquid lip paints are my passion. I mean, yoga and dance, literature and travel and yoga pants of COURSE, but closely followed by lip paint. I was a teenager in the 90s, so perhaps that explains my deep love of matte lips. I just hate the gloss and goo of some lip products. I want my lip colour to last from the moment I apply it through to when I WANT to remove it! So it must last through me talking, sweating, drinking coffee and sweating, and talking. Velourlips ($10.49 at Priceline) is a cult product and it's so cheap, you can indulge in a few and either wear solo or try blending colours to customise.

As for concealers and foundations, what if I told you you could get PERFECT coverage without any blemishes and it would last through yoga, CrossFit, barre, pilates, running half a mile and even a sneaky post work coffee?
I have just discovered Mirenesse concealer and foundation. It's a cult brand amongst beauty and makeup professionals. Now I know why. I've been using the Ballet Pink CC Concealer. It's perfect for lightening under they eyes AND blemishes.
No wonder it's a hit at Sephora.
I'm also using their Velvet Maxi Lift Airbrush Line Treatment Foundation. It is going to make me eternally youthful and spot free while looking flawless. Sold!

Mirenesse lip liners are also my new obsession. Because long after your lipstick has transferred to the mid morning apple, your lip liner will be going strong. Because one is never enough, you can select from the duo of your choice. Mine is Forbidden Ink Natural Nudes.

As for activewear, SO much to wear, such a short life. Don't settle for less than "OM MY GOODNESS!" worthy pants, crops, tanks and sneakers. 

Onzie are the LA yoga crew who keep producing perfect fits, cuts, shapes and prints for yogis who want to look chic but also really need to be able to go from downward dog to peacock to eight-legged pose without hearing rrrriiiipppppp. These are yoga clothes made for yoga. The new Dreamer Collection is well named, because if you dream of yoga gear (guilty) this is exactly what you'd come up with. I am in love with the Candy Cloud print (pastel, feminine but fit). I also love Igloo. There's so much black, navy and grey happening in the gym. It's almost funereal. If you insist on needing dark pants, at least add some electric lights (Krypton leggings, pictured right).

ABC of Skincare & Retinol for Acne, Wrinkles & Pigmentation

If you're serious about skincare, you are familiar with retinol. It's a form of Vitamin A that is used in both prescription and over-the-counter skincare products to alleviate acne and also to refine and plump ageing skin. It is found in high concentration in Accutane, which I did two rounds of as a teenager with terrible acne. It is a powerful ingredient and skin is highly sensitive to sunlight, tends to dry out easier and the lips need constant balm application.
Is it worth it? Absolutely. It completely cleared my skin.

For the past few years I have used a prescription Retinol (try Retin-A) but, through my strict research (Elle, Harper's, Vogue Paris, Vogue Italia, etc) I kept coming across a few dermatologist-recommended skincare brands using high-grade, proven ingredients.
So I had to have what the Italian, French and UK fashionistas are having, of course.
SkinCeuticals does two speeds of Retinol. Because I have been using a prescription retinol for so long, my skin is primed for the more powerful 1.0% formula. If you are new to retinol use, start with the less intense option (0.5% formula). Retinol has been proven to reduce acne, diminish wrinkles, fine lines and pigmentation. It is magic for clearing up blackheads and promotes collagen production for a more dewy, plumped appearance to the skin. Applied overnight, I use it three times a week. In this weather, I avoid direct sunlight and always apply SPF. Also, it is essential to avoid retinol if you are pregnant. This is true of any Vitamin A formula.

My current issue is uneven skintone. I'm naturally pale and for me, it's highly noticeable around my chin and jaw. So in combination with retinol, I'm using the Metacell Renewal B3. It sounds super scientific and promises to "re-clarify skin, reduce wrinkles, re-tighten surface elasticity, and even skin tone". I apply it 15 minutes before makeup in the morning and it leaves my skin smooth and primed for concealer. I have also used Medik8 Hydr8 B5 serum and it is awesome. You only need a few drops at a time. Worth every penny!

Since we've done Vitamin A and B, it's only fair to bring in the final factor. Vitamin C, when delivered in a highly stable and concentrated solution, is a powerful antioxidant. It protects against environmental damage (pollution, excess heating and cooling, dirt and grime) as well as repairing damage from sun exposure and pigmentation. I am a convert to Medik8 CE-Tetra. Medical grade Vitamin C and you only need a few drops at a time so it will last you for ages. Think of cost per use!

I highly recommend that your first port of call, before you consider clinical lasers or other interventions, is to invest in retinol and skincare that is suited to your skin (both the tone and texture). This might be pharmaceutical grade, like SkinCeuticals and Medik8, or it may be all-natural and organic. Do your research and only be satisfied with results that work for your skin. Some of the cheaper, supermarket ready skincare makes big promises but the concentration of vitamin A, B and C is just too low to have any effect. Be warned.
Full range of Medik8 and Skinceuticals available at FacialCo.

Gym Bag Essentials for Summer

Hello Sun - nice to have you back in Melbourne at full freakin' strength.
Time to rejig the skincare, food and drink choices, makeup and gymwear options. Yes, full length tights aren't always suitable for more humid weather. And heavier, warm foods aren't always conducive to a comfortable sleep on humid, hot nights.
So pour yourself a cold brewed coffee (super strong plunger coffee left in the fridge overnight? Ideal morning greeting!) and add these summer staples to your own gym bag. If it makes you feel good about working out and looking after yourself, it's an investment in your wellbeing and maintaining healthy, body happy habits!

Om Shanti Clothing Power Capri in Fractal Spiral Cleft and Yoga Heart Crop Top are ideal summer yoga, pilates, barre, dance and gym fashion. I have tried and tested this brand in hot yoga, outdoor yoga, barre, weights and cardio sessions and also hardcore supermarket workouts (stretch, grab, lift and squat!). Functional AND fashionable.

The Little Alchemist Pineapple & Zeolite Micropolish is cruelty free, natural, certified organic and 100% Australian made. And it smells like a tropical cocktail! You'll be counting down the workout seconds until you can hit the shower and polish up.

The Little Alchemist Cacao & Cardamom Body Serum combines acai and goji berries, wheatgrass, chocolatey cacao and spicy cardamom to nourish your skin with all natural, certified organic ingredients. You'll smell like a fruity dream as you float from the steamy studio to your coffee date.

Medik8 CE Tetra (from Facial Co) is a high quality, concentrated vitamin C serum that will last for ages. You only need to apply a few drops to your face, wait a minute, then apply your skincare and makeup. Vitamin C retexturises and brightens the complexion. It fights acne, blemishes and protects against environmental damage. I apply it ritually morning and night!

Maybelline Fit Me Dewy + Smooth Foundation with SPF 18 sunscreen. Affordable, non comedogenic, hydrates skin and comes in so many tones, you will definitely find a perfect match. I'm 220 Natural Beige. If you're less about a liquid foundation, try...

Maybelline Fit Me Stick Foundation with SPF 15 sunscreen (I'm 130 Buff Beige) which is perfect for spot-prone skin because it's:

• oil free
• natural and matte (no shiny face!)
• easy to keep subtle or build for fuller coverage

W3LL People Bio Brightener is an all natural, cruelty free illuminating stick. The creamy formula is lightweight and easy to apply quickly and effortlessly. You could keep it in your handbag or the glovebox for touch-ups! Try applying it under the outer edge of your eyebrows, on the height of the cheekbones, and a dab on the cupid's bow. The spots where the light naturally hits your skin. I also adore the W3LL People Bio Bronzer. Again, this is a creamy formula that you can draw on (I feel like Tank Girl!) then blend with your fingers, a sponge, or a brush. With extracts of aloe, green tea and chamomile, you're nourishing your skin as well as looking gorgeous. Both available at Beautiful Because (all about natural beauty products).

KMS Tame Frizz De-Frizz Oil is lightweight, non greasy and creates a barrier to prevent humidity attacking your perfect #gymhair #ballet topknot! Use on wet hair OR dry hair. 

VS Sassoon Straight & Curl is cheaper than some of the hair styling tools out there, and having used it for several months now, I would entirely recommend it for straightening AND creating curls. I especially love that you can adjust the heat settings so that if you have thinner strands, you're not blasting them with full bore heat, whereas coarser hair might require a bit more oomph. Plus the same tool gives you dead straight style or gorgeous mermaid waves and curls. BONUS! By buying from the VS Sassoon The Power of Pink collection, you're supporting VS Sassoon in donating to Breast Cancer Network Australia.