Skincare: Cleansing, Vitamins and Probiotics for Clear Radiant Skin

When it comes to the skin, it's important to remember this is the largest organ of the body. Like all our other organs, it is highly reactive and responsive to what we eat, our level of activity, stress levels and sleep quality.

I've written before on the benefits of probiotics for your digestion.
Not only do they improve vitamin and mineral absorption, they can be beneficial during and after antibiotic use to restore balance to the gut bacteria and also to support immune function during stressful periods.

Good digestion and good immune function are also vital to radiant, healthy skin. 

You don't need to take probiotic supplements as a first call, but I find they're the most convenient option for me. If your diet naturally has fermented foods such as miso, sauerkraut, kombucha and yoghurt (not the nasty diet and fat free options!) then you're on the right track.

Here's the foods you want and the skincare I'm using and that I swear by. Yes, it will cost a bit more than your supermarket shelf option, but it has higher concentration and high quality ingredients. You can afford to spend a little more on cleansers and specialist serums and go for cheaper moisturisers - but check that your moisturiser is non-comedogenic (doesn't block pores and cause blackheads).

Alpha H is beloved in the beauty therapy world. For good reason. Their Vitamin C serum is a staple in my bathroom cabinet and while this is my first time using the Triple Action Cleanser, it leaves my skin feeling fresh, without the harshness of some deep cleansers. No prune face post washing! Find it at Facial Co.

Danne Montague-King is also a salon brand. High quality, high potency products and I have been using them for years with great results. I am new to these ones and I am loving them. The Exoderma and Foamy Lift are used together for an enzyme peel. It's not vicious - you won't be left with peeling and redness, don't fear. It's a gentle peel for at-home use.
The Beta Gel is packed with Vitamin B and C for acne and blemish prone skin. I use it when my skin decides to have a spotty turn - it usually happens when I get stressed or underslept. Or both.
DMK is only available at skin clinics - find your closest one on the DMK Clinic Locator. And book a facial - because life is short and facials are awesome.

Skinceuticals were recommended to me by a cosmetic skin specialist AND several beauty therapists. It is highly rated in the skincare and beauty world for good reason - I am a dedicated Vitamin C devotee and if you haven't used Skinceuticals, you really must. I have been using medik8 Retinol 10TR, which is high strength and my skin needs a bit of a break and a reboost so in the few days between applying retinol, I'm applying daily Skinceuticals CE Ferulic. Find both Skinceuticals AND medik8 at Skincare Store.

Foods:

Miso, Kefir, Soft cheeses, Yoghurt, Milk with Probiotics, Sauerkraut, Kombucha, Tempeh

Supplements:
Inner Health Plus available at Ethical Nutrients

Retinol: blitz lines, blemishes and pigmentation

As I've told you a zillion times, I had terrible acne in my early teens and was on prescription Accutane (retinol or vitamin A) supplements to treat it. It worked. I have been absolutely strict about using skincare that genuinely works - without being aggressive and leaving skin damaged - ever since.
Many retinol products - or even products SAYING they have retinol in them! - are either really harsh and will leave the skin red, peeling or even dry and scaly, OR they have such a low concentration or ineffective formulation that you won't see any results at all.

Within weeks of use, you should notice that the skin has:

• a smoother texture, 
• definitely less blemishes; and 
• softer lines. 

I have tried so many products and there are a few I would recommend. One is prescription and the others are available via salons and online.
Medik8 does an excellent range of retinol serums and balms. This brand comes with dermatologist, beautician and clinician recommendation. I recommend that you start with Retinol 3TR (0.3%) or 6TR if you don't regularly use retinol already. At the moment, I'm using Medik8 Retinol 10TR. This will be available via Skincare Store later this month in serum form, but you can still get the 10TR balm form. This is the HIGHEST STRENGTH vitamin A. In time-release formula, it hasn't aggravated my skin and I'm pretty sensitive so I'm actually surprised (and very happy.)

I see Dr Sara Mullen at the Victorian Cosmetic Institute every 6 months for a sprinkling of botox to the forehead and on my last visit, I asked if she would be interrogated on the benefits of retinol. Thankfully, she found time between being in heavy demand at work and doing the soccer run with the kids.

Why use retinol?
Topical retinoids, derivatives of  Vitamin A, were first used in patients who were being treated for acne. These patients reported smoother skin and less wrinkles after treatment, as well as having fewer blemishes. A study followed that showed patients who used topical retinoids demonstrated improvement in sunlight-induced epidermal atrophy (skin thinning), dysplasia (abnormal skin changes), and pigmentation. Overall, topical retinoids play a key role in reducing sun damage, preventing and reducing wrinkles and controlling acne.

Retinoids work by increasing the natural turnover rate of the skin. Therefore there are less dead skin cells at the surface of the skin and less blockages as a result. This property of retinoids also means that skin texture and fine wrinkles also improve.

What age would you recommend starting?
Early 30s

What strength retinol is appropriate?
4% retinol is ideal but patients may need time to work up to this dose.

How often should you use it?
Starting slowly is important to reduce side effects.  It is recommended that it be used only twice a week in the first 2 weeks, then alternative nights for the next 2 weeks, then every night. Sunscreen is also imperative with the use of retinoids as they can initially increase sun sensitivity.

Is flaking, peeling and redness a sign of a problem?
The downside of retinoids is the possibility of causing a response known as retinoic dermatitis. Skin can appear red, flaky, lumpy, and irritated for up to one month after commencement of retinoids. If redness and irritation occurs, frequency should be reduced. Some patients cannot use retinoids every night. Dryness or flakiness alone is OK and will settle within 2 months so patients should persevere.

How long do you need to use retinol products before you see a difference?
You can start to see a difference in the skin as early as 3 months of use.

What conditions would prevent someone from safely using retinol?
Retinoids should not be used in pregnant or breastfeeding mothers, or those planning to be pregnant. Also patients with a history of facial eczema or moderate to severe rosacea due to the higher risk of irritation.

ABC of Skincare & Retinol for Acne, Wrinkles & Pigmentation

If you're serious about skincare, you are familiar with retinol. It's a form of Vitamin A that is used in both prescription and over-the-counter skincare products to alleviate acne and also to refine and plump ageing skin. It is found in high concentration in Accutane, which I did two rounds of as a teenager with terrible acne. It is a powerful ingredient and skin is highly sensitive to sunlight, tends to dry out easier and the lips need constant balm application.
Is it worth it? Absolutely. It completely cleared my skin.

For the past few years I have used a prescription Retinol (try Retin-A) but, through my strict research (Elle, Harper's, Vogue Paris, Vogue Italia, etc) I kept coming across a few dermatologist-recommended skincare brands using high-grade, proven ingredients.
So I had to have what the Italian, French and UK fashionistas are having, of course.
SkinCeuticals does two speeds of Retinol. Because I have been using a prescription retinol for so long, my skin is primed for the more powerful 1.0% formula. If you are new to retinol use, start with the less intense option (0.5% formula). Retinol has been proven to reduce acne, diminish wrinkles, fine lines and pigmentation. It is magic for clearing up blackheads and promotes collagen production for a more dewy, plumped appearance to the skin. Applied overnight, I use it three times a week. In this weather, I avoid direct sunlight and always apply SPF. Also, it is essential to avoid retinol if you are pregnant. This is true of any Vitamin A formula.

My current issue is uneven skintone. I'm naturally pale and for me, it's highly noticeable around my chin and jaw. So in combination with retinol, I'm using the Metacell Renewal B3. It sounds super scientific and promises to "re-clarify skin, reduce wrinkles, re-tighten surface elasticity, and even skin tone". I apply it 15 minutes before makeup in the morning and it leaves my skin smooth and primed for concealer. I have also used Medik8 Hydr8 B5 serum and it is awesome. You only need a few drops at a time. Worth every penny!

Since we've done Vitamin A and B, it's only fair to bring in the final factor. Vitamin C, when delivered in a highly stable and concentrated solution, is a powerful antioxidant. It protects against environmental damage (pollution, excess heating and cooling, dirt and grime) as well as repairing damage from sun exposure and pigmentation. I am a convert to Medik8 CE-Tetra. Medical grade Vitamin C and you only need a few drops at a time so it will last you for ages. Think of cost per use!

I highly recommend that your first port of call, before you consider clinical lasers or other interventions, is to invest in retinol and skincare that is suited to your skin (both the tone and texture). This might be pharmaceutical grade, like SkinCeuticals and Medik8, or it may be all-natural and organic. Do your research and only be satisfied with results that work for your skin. Some of the cheaper, supermarket ready skincare makes big promises but the concentration of vitamin A, B and C is just too low to have any effect. Be warned.
Full range of Medik8 and Skinceuticals available at FacialCo.